Tsum Valley Trek - 12 days

Today marks the first day of trekking as we follow the Budhi Gandaki River northward. The trail gradually ascends alongside the river, offering high overlooks and, on a clear day, glimpses of Manaslu. The route winds through terraced farms and small villages where locals have carved out a living on the mountainside.

The lower elevation here means a warmer climate, with temperatures reaching up to 33°C. As we trek, we pass Tatopani (meaning "hot water"), a natural hot spring, before reaching a suspension bridge. At this point, we have two options—either crossing to the east side of the Budhi Gandaki or continuing along the west, both leading to Jagat. For much of the journey, we follow the east side until another suspension bridge takes us back west.

Along the way, we stop in Dobhan for lunch before continuing on the ascending trail. The final stretch involves crossing the river once more before arriving at Jagat, a major village where we check in at the permit checkpoint. Jagat offers several guesthouses, making it a comfortable stop for the night. 

Today, we officially enter Tsum Valley. The journey begins with a long suspension bridge crossing over the Budhi Gandaki River, followed by a steady ascent to Philim. Along the way, we descend briefly into Sirdibas, where small streams power traditional grist mills. Beyond Sirdibas, we cross either of two final suspension bridges over the Budhi Gandaki, making our way up to Philim.

Philim is a large village with hotels, shops, and a school. It serves as an important checkpoint where we complete our permit registration. From here, settlements become sparse as we continue north. The trail clings to the mountainside, weaving up and down while offering spectacular views of cascading waterfalls that plunge into the deepening gorge of the Budhi Gandaki below.

We pass through the small villages of Eklebhatti and Chisapani (meaning "Cold Water"), where fresh spring water flows through community taps. As we move further north, houses disappear, and the river gradually narrows. Eventually, we reach the confluence of the Syar River, where Tsum Valley branches off to the right.

A final ascent brings us to Lokpa, the first village of Tsum Valley, offering stunning views of Manaslu. The trek takes approximately 6-8 hours, and while Lokpa is a small settlement, it provides adequate food and lodging for the night.

Lokpa may be the entrance to Tsum Valley, but the real entrance lies beyond the village in a deep narrow gorge. The trail from Lokpa drops down to the river valley and then up again before we reach the Cliffside suspension bridge. There are no villages between Lokpa and Chumling. There is a small tea shop at Gumlung where the trail divides. We cross the suspension bridge over the Syar River and ascend to the village of Chumling. Trekking time 5-6 hours. 

Today’s trek will go from the lower to the upper valley. The trail follows along the Syar River down to Domje and then rises over 500 meters to the largest village in Tsum Valley: Chhokang Paro. Of special interest is the pretty little village of Gho above Domje. There is also a tea shop and hotel. We advance further down the “highway” from Chhokang Paro through Tsum Valley. 

Although the valley is narrow, it is fertile, and you can see the residents farming. Chhokang Paro is very typical Tibetan. We then reach Lamagon, a larger community in the Upper Tsum Valley. 

Lama Gaon offers a glimpse into the tranquil rhythm of life in Tsum Valley, where spirituality and nature exist in perfect harmony. The day begins with the soft glow of sunrise over Ganesh Himal, as villagers start their morning with prayers and simple routines. A warm breakfast of tsampa, buckwheat pancakes, and butter tea provides energy for the day’s exploration.

A visit to Rachen Nunnery and the new Tsum Monastery reveals a peaceful world where nuns chant ancient scriptures and vibrant murals depict Buddhist teachings. Walking through the village, mani walls and chortens line the trails, each stone etched with centuries-old prayers. Locals greet visitors warmly, sharing stories of their sacred valley.

Just a short hike past Lamagaon is Piren Phu or the cave of St. Milarepa. This revered meditation site is perched above the valley. The air is thick with spiritual energy, and the silence invites quiet reflection. The cave is located on the side of the mountain, and the cave monastery offers great views of the valley.

Returning to the village, a simple yet hearty meal of Thukpa or Dal Bhat offers a taste of their daily life. The afternoon may be spent wandering through barley fields and among stone houses, where children play and elders spin prayer wheels. As the sun sets, casting golden hues over the valley, the sound of evening chants fills the air, leaving a deep sense of peace and connection with this hidden Himalayan sanctuary.

Leaving Lama Gaon, the trail gently ascends through the valley, passing traditional Tsumba villages, mani walls, and chortens adorned with prayer flags fluttering in the mountain breeze. Along the way, the villages of Nile and Chule offer a glimpse into the unique culture of the Tsum Valley, with their traditional stone houses and welcoming locals.

As the path winds further north, the landscape becomes more rugged and remote, with panoramic views of the Ganesh Himal and the Tibetan plateau stretching in the distance. The spiritual presence of the valley deepens as you approach Mu Gompa, the northernmost point of the trek.

Perched on a hillside, Mu Gompa is a centuries-old monastery and an important Buddhist retreat. The monastery houses a small community of monks who dedicate their lives to meditation and study. Visitors are welcomed into the monastery’s simple yet serene atmosphere, where ancient scriptures, prayer wheels, and butter lamps add to its timeless charm.

Spending the night at Mu Gompa allows you to experience the monastic way of life: listening to evening prayers, enjoying a warm meal prepared by the monks, and soaking in the profound tranquility of this sacred place, far removed from the modern world.

The morning at Mu Gompa begins in peaceful solitude, with the rhythmic chanting of monks filling the crisp mountain air. Before starting the descent, a short visit to the Dephyudonma Nunnery, located near Mu Gompa, offers a glimpse into the life of the Buddhist nuns who have dedicated themselves to meditation and spiritual practice in this remote setting. The nunnery, nestled against the stark Himalayan landscape, holds deep spiritual significance and provides a quiet moment for reflection before the journey south.

Retracing the trail, the trek gradually descends through Nile and Chule, passing familiar mani walls, chortens, and stone houses that dot the valley. The descent offers a different perspective of the surrounding peaks and landscapes, with occasional stops to soak in the vastness of Ganesh Himal and the rugged terrain stretching toward Tibet.

Continuing past Lama Gaon, the route leads back to Chhekamparo. The valley widens, revealing terraced fields and a cluster of traditional homes. After a long yet rewarding day, a warm meal and rest at a local teahouse, surrounded by the tranquil beauty of Tsum Valley, provide a comforting end to the journey.

The morning in Chhekamparo begins with the sun casting its first light over the valley, illuminating the stone houses and terraced fields. After a warm breakfast, the journey continues south, leaving behind the upper Tsum Valley. The trail descends gradually, offering changing perspectives of the landscape as you pass familiar mani walls, prayer wheels, and scattered chortens.

The path to Ripchet leads through quiet forests, where the sounds of birds and rustling leaves replace the chants of monasteries. In sections, the route becomes more rugged, with occasional glimpses of waterfalls cascading down the cliffs. As you near Ripchet, the village appears nestled among lush greenery, offering a stark contrast to the high-altitude terrain of the past few days. This small, traditional settlement is home to warm-hearted locals, and spending the night here provides a closer look at their way of life.

Evening in Ripchet is peaceful, with the sounds of the Budhi Gandaki River flowing in the distance. A simple meal, shared with fellow trekkers or hosts, rounds off the day before resting in a cosy teahouse.

The trail continues its descent, moving away from the isolated beauty of Tsum Valley and reconnecting with the main Manaslu Circuit route. The walk from Ripchet to Jagat winds through forests of pine and rhododendrons, crossing suspension bridges over glacial rivers. The landscape transforms as the rugged highlands give way to fertile hillsides, where farmers tend to their terraced fields.

Along the way, small settlements offer moments to pause and take in the surroundings. The familiarity of the path brings a sense of reflection—passing places seen earlier in the trek, now from a different perspective. Approaching Jagat, the village feels more bustling compared to the quiet trails of the past days. Settled along the Budhi Gandaki River, Jagat offers a comfortable place to unwind, with teahouses providing warm meals and a restful atmosphere.

As the day winds down, a final glimpse at the mountain ridges above brings a mix of nostalgia and accomplishment, knowing the trek is nearing its end.

The journey continues through familiar terrain, retracing the trail that once led into the mystical Tsum Valley. Descending further, the route follows the Budhi Gandaki River, crossing suspension bridges and passing through subtropical forests. The warmer climate becomes more noticeable, and the vegetation grows denser, with occasional waterfalls cascading from the hillsides.

Villages along the way bustle with daily life—mules carrying supplies, children playing near the trails, and locals tending to their crops. The return trek feels lighter, with a sense of ease as the altitude drops and the paths become less steep. Machha Khola, a small riverside village, welcomes travellers with its comforting atmosphere. A soak in the nearby hot springs (if time permits) provides a well-earned reward after days of trekking in the remote valleys.

As the last night on the trail approaches, a hearty meal and the company of fellow trekkers make for a perfect end to the trekking journey.

The morning starts with the final stretch—boarding a jeep back to Kathmandu, marking the transition from the quiet mountain trails back to the city’s energy. The drive, though long and bumpy in sections, retraces the route along the Budhi Gandaki River, passing through terraced fields, small villages, and winding mountain roads.

As Kathmandu comes into view, the contrast between the remote Himalayas and the bustling streets becomes more evident. The familiar sights and sounds of Thamel signal the end of an unforgettable journey. After checking into a hotel, a hot shower and a celebratory meal await—perhaps a well-deserved feast of Nepali dal bhat or something from the city’s many international eateries.

The trek may be over, but the memories of Tsum Valley—its sacred monasteries, kind-hearted locals, and breathtaking landscapes—will stay long after the journey ends.